Confusing words makes you funny in French

25 Jan

 

 

So the other night Pirate and I were at L’Americano in St. Anne having  three Euro Stellas and dinner with a friend. I was in the middle of explaining in French that Pirate was en route the last time I had him on the phone and that I couldn’t hear him very well..something utterly unimportant and, so I thought, easy to say. Well, if it weren’t for that evil little ‘eu’ sound in French, I would have slipped by unnoticed. I mispronounced. I outed myself as a crappy French speaker. What I said was, “Tu étais en rut” instead of “Tu etais en route”. The sound is difficult for me to differentiate. I need to concentrate, put all my energy into making that one damned vowel sound, “euuuuuuwww”  vs “ooouuuu”.

So I failed to do that, and in doing so told Pirate, “You were in heat”, not “You were en route”.  That got quite the laugh. I guess I will think twice before smiling kindly yet witl laughing eyes at someone who is French when they tell me someone is a “beech”.  Vowels are difficult people!

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Bad jokes

19 Jan

You know when someone makes a joke or some sort of comparison that’s just not funny or even relevant? Happens everywhere in any language I would assume. The discomfort as a speaker of French as a second language is that I can’t retort the way I would like to. Instead, I’m left stumped, saying nothing, or using words in a nonsensical order so that I sound like someone fumbling around for some way to ask for something. It’s too easy to make mistakes in your second language when you’re slightly shocked or riled up. It’s the not so fabulous destiny of a handful of conversations I’ve (tried to) had here.

So there I am with some people. We’re talking about culture, how I like it here, how they view the Americans, stuff like that. It’s all normal and good and anticipated. I can almost quote the conversation before it happens. Undoubtedly we will hit upon some comment about how I’m not like ‘the rest’ (because I’m here and I speak French. Mind you, I am the last of many of my friends to speak a second language)  Then something about the ‘speed’ in the States (can’t really deny that when I’m in the land of never rush a thing, but I’ve yet to argue it’s about efficiency), how the shopping is great over there, and then onto the inevitable discussion of food. I find myself defending the number of people in the US who want better food for less money, how there are a lot of people studying to become farmers now, how not everybody in fact eats McDonald’s every day, if even at all. How it’s a very big country and that one view of that country simply cannot suffice. How of course we have cheese that isn’t orange processed cheese food. Which, not for nothing, I grew up on, and I can attest to seeing a rainbow of options of that exact sort of cheese food in the supermarché here in Guadeloupe.

So the food thing usually lasts if we don’t get stuck on why we elected Bush, and I mean people really get stuck on how an entire country – or at least enough of it – decided on the Decider. Twice. So, food. We talk about quality and quantity. We talk about traditional American and French food. I say I find French food delicious if not heavy for my liking, not being huge on meat or deli or heavy cream, and they talk about how difficult it is to find a real espresso in the States, real cheese, decent wine, and a real, sit down, take your time attitude towards a meal. They sort of have me there, except for the wine and the cheese. Hello, California? Ever heard of that little state, gets quite a bit of tourism, and I might mention makes damn fine wine and cheese. Hmph. So my French vocabulary surrounding cheese and wine and food might be up to par. What I was not prepared for was the little tiny remark that was just coming around the corner.

As mentioned, we discuss quantity. Now, in general it is true that Americans have a different culture of eating. I would say that we stick to the three meals a day thing. I would say that the French do it slightly differently. Eggs, bacon, toast, coffee and juice at 7am is horrifying to most French I’ve met. They simply cannot imagine this as petit-dejeuner.  As for dinner, lunch, the meals are longer, more drawn out. (not including work lunches, that’s going the way of the Americans I’ve been told) There is a drink with snacks. There are appetizers, which are not the same as snacks. There are a few small plates, then the main dish (also small), and then something like cheese perhaps with fruit, bread, then something sweet, and of course, coffees. It’s quite elaborate. And the quantity overall is still perhaps less than a plate at the Cheesecake Factory. It’s true. In discussing this, one woman said to me, “I was with some American friends who asked me how I stayed this size, and I showed them their plates, I said, ‘I don’t eat like that. You have to eat less’” Then she said:

“I told them, you see the people in Aushwitz? There were no fat people in Aushwitz. Think about it. There’s a reason for that.”

Mmhmm. I’m just gonna let that one sink in. Theeereyago….let out your breath and let your eyebrows come back from the top of your head. I still haven’t found mine. I was stupefied.  Seriously? Did you really just make some ….sort of….comparison ….not being fat….concentration camp….if I were to be…so then….oooh right I totally see what you’re saying, ignoramus.   So here I was, in one of those moments where I just needed some clever concise (ok I’m nothing like concise but whatever I can work on it) whippersnapper of a sentence to roll off of my skinny tongue (and I wasn’t even there, imagine?) and you know, I just couldn’t even come up with anything in French that would have been cutting yet classy enough. I’m working on not just giving my standard middle finger stress response, you see. Perhaps I should have made an exception?

So, helpless when stressed, that’s me. At least in French. It’s motivated me to start working on my vocabulary. Perhaps I will simply prepare standard responses to all sorts of possible infringements. That could work. I’ll start on that today….

Do and See in Guadeloupe

14 Jan

Going ‘out’ in Guadeloupe isn’t that easy. Why? No information. Little communication. Billboards are taken up by ads for cheap furniture when they could be put to better use to tell people about the handful of events going on on the island on any given night. I’ve found some help though. There are apparently some people making the effort to get information out to the masses who normally have people ‘at home’ or go to a restaurant. Bar culture doesn’t really exist here. So, for your going ‘out’ pleasure, here is the link to the kkfet newsletter:

http://www.mytimusic.com/kkfet-guadeloupe.php

I used this to find out about a concert a few weeks back. The concert was set to begin at 10:00 but actually started at almost midnight. In spite of the fact that it was in a bar which was nothing more than a few tin walls, and no back wall but a big green tarp, it was a great night. They make food there but I questioned it’s quality. Sorry guys. The grill set up on the back counter with a huge dusty fan blowing the smoke into the bar just wasn’t my thing. The group you booked however was fabulous.

 

I don’t understand the egg on the pizza

11 Jan Awesome salad at Bahia Lounge Cafe

Pirate could live on pizza alone. I’ve suggested we do a tropical version of the Burrito Eater from San Francisco, and rate all the pizza in Guadeloupe. There is a LOT of pizza. I like how it is often prepared and served roadside from the canteen trucks. I find it impressive that the entire operation doesn’t exist until about 6pm and then there they are, full pizza oven roaring for the evening until it’s all packed away again, including the generator (have you ever eaten roadside beside a generator? Interesting ambiance) and doesn’t reappear until the next evening.  As with all food, the quality of the pizza varies depending on where you get it and I suppose, what your expectations are.

So we went to a great little restaurant last night, Bahia Lounge Cafe in St. Francois. The menu is a big mix of Asian-inspired cuisine, typical local dishes, and of course, pizza. There is always pizza, it seems. So Pirate gets a pizza and I get an awesome salad with chevre toast. When the pizza arrives, I notice something I’ve seen before but chose to ignore because it kind of made me nauseous.  In the center of the pizza, there is a half cooked egg, fried egg style, sunny side up. Just laying there, on top of the pizza, big yellow yolk all runny, with the white of the egg around it, all slimy and undercooked. On a pizza. With ham and cheese and some olives.  Now, food is one of the biggest cultural things to explore when you are Someplace Else. I am open to some things, I eat sushi, I tried beef carpaccio, didn’t like it, tried escargot, wasn’t really a texture I enjoyed, but I’m not criticizing people who eat things I don’t. It just depends what you like. But seriously. An egg on a pizza? I know, I know, I must be ignorant. I don’t get it. Such refined eating habits are above me. (turns green) I admit it, I don’t understand. Was it a mistake someone made one day and just called it the newest thing so they wouldn’t have to throw the pizza away? Was it a college student’s hangover creation when there was nothing but leftover pizza and one egg in the house? Why? Why would you ruin a delicious thing like pizza, cheesy golden goodness on the perfect amount of slightly crispy yet soft dough, with an undercooked egg? (turns more green) Sigh. It ranks right up there with beef tartare, raw ground beef served in a bowl with a raw egg on top, you mix it and eat it. If that’s your thing, go nuts, but I can’t fathom putting one forkful into my mouth without vomiting. Even if I could eat it, I’d be worried about getting seriously ill – may I reference my past post about W for worms…. Yeah yeah I eat raw fish. Maybe it’s the same, I don’t know. Eesh.

In any case, Bahia Lounge Cafe is recommended by moi. The lady (I’m not sure if she’s the owner) who is always working there is so kind. Always smiling. The food is systematically great and presented nicely. (see my salad, I don’t know why I didn’t snap a better picture of the stupid egg-pizza, but you can see it! The yolk…to the right of the frame!) There are a lot of options and great appetizers like nem, samosa, accra.  I’ve never been there for live music but from the looks of their facebook page it seems they’re quite busy, I’d check it out. It’s very spacious and open air.  Easy parking at the marina in St. Francois.  You might want to ask about the egg situation before you order any pizza….

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More I don’t understand – Ham.

8 Jan

Let’s be clear. I speak French. I never said I speak it well.  Once in a while, you realize you have been wrong about something you thought you knew for quite some time. Like the time les Monstres got the chickenpox and I realized Pirate called them chicken pops. When questioned, he admitted that’s what he thought it was really called. Cute. Back to my own realization…. So there we are, at the deli counter. Now let me start by explaining that there is an ever presence of ham on this island. It’s everywhere. In everything. You got your sliced prepackaged ham with slight differences like the slimy casing cut off or not…you got your dried ham, your smoked ham, and your little diced up morsels of ham, ‘les lardons’. The word lard being in the name was enough for me to not want them in my salads, but they are quite lovely in an omelet. Each cube has half ham and half fat. Total diet food.

So as far as I knew, the word jambon meant ham. Look at the screenshot from Larousse dictionary.  Did I misunderstand? Apparently. So I’m looking in the glass case at the deli counter. I’m saying to Pirate, “I just want some freaking turkey. Why is that not possible?” He replies, “Mais oui, it’s right there, look – jambon dinde“.  To reference Larousse again, dinde is defined as ‘turkey’. So. I implore you. What do I take from this written on a sign sitting on a big lump of meat? ‘Jambon dinde’ or ‘ham turkey’? Ah hah! Pirate’s eyes opened wide and his smile slowly spread, I know that at that moment, after all of my jabs corrections on his English, he was thinking, “At last! Mockery is mine! Muhahahaha!”  He explained to me that jambon refers to a piece of meat of any kind, so I guess I could substitute the word deli for jambon to explain it. Like deli turkey, deli salami, etc. Now when I see the second definition of jambon as ‘thigh’, that makes a bit of sense. But godammit, why did it have to be the same word as ham?!  So we took some TURKEY slices and now my whole view on the world of deli has changed. Apparently the entire window is not filled with ham-turkey and ham-chicken and ham-salami and ham-ham. Well fine then. I’m going to go make a sandwich. Without butter. Because really, what is it with the butter on the sandwiches?!

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