Tag Archives: restaurants in Guadeloupe

Farm to plate in Guadeloupe

2 May

Les 3 Fermiers had been tempting me since I came across their blog months ago.  I rallied some pals who also dig the idea of farm to plate dining and off we went to the country of Hans Bertrand. Long roads and sugarcane fields, cows and lolos, the stuff surf trip films are full of when they show this part of the Caribbean. In a hangar-type structure which was perfectly ventilated as well as decorated, we were served a delicious meal including aperitif of rhum fait maison in your choice of at least ten different flavors, appetizers – one warm and one cold, main dish, dessert, and a bottle of wine for the four of us. The verdict in brief: YUM and YES! Coffee is not included, and if not for the fact that I had to drive back home alone and thought it would be best to stay awake, I would not even have had the space for that teeny tiny coffee. The price was 30 euros each. A fair price considering they grow it, harvest it, prepare it, serve it.

Clotilde and her mom were running the place that day (as they do, I assume most days!) and I have honestly NEVER had better service in a restaurant in Guadeloupe. What sweet gracious women. It’s clear they love what they do, and it sets the mood for the whole experience. It’s calm but efficient, relaxed and lively. We made nice with the folks at the table next to us during the meal, don’t ya love that?!

After eating we did a tour of the farm where Clotilde told us which plants and vegetables were which. They work a lot of land over there, complete with papaya, banana, madere, giraumon,manioc and an herb garden, plus so much more. So much food, so few chemicals. Yay!

If you take good look at a map before you go and bring it with you, and pay close attention to a couple of worn out signs on the way, it’s relatively easy to find.  If I’m saying that, really truly it must be because I do still suffer from neon sign syndrome. Can’t find a thing without them, and for the most part, they don’t really exist here for direction’s sake. So, when you make it to Gwada, hit the beach in Hans Bertrand on Sunday morning – there’s a great surf spot with a great non-surfer spot at the same beach. Then, when you’re good and hungry, head over to see Clotilde and her mom. Make a reservation though!!! That’s a great day.

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Below, cotton in front of sugarcane field on the way in…

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Above, cold appetizer, fish, mushrooms (I think – I should have taken notes!), giraumon, and I think christophine which is a root vegetable lighter than a potato when cooked.

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Above, the mother load. So good. Pork which tasted slow roasted and seasoned, and fell off the bone, with seasoned rice and a sweet banana gratin…ooooohhhhhhh….

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Above, the many tastes of local made rhum chez Les 3 Fermiers, plus fresh made juice sans alcohol. Certainly some flavors I’d never even heard of! Wow.

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Bungalows for rent on the farm! Right behind the restaurant. I bet the stars at night are incredible in this country setting. Who knows, maybe they’d trade for farmhand work for a weekend or something? I didn’t ask, but super enthusiastic agri-tourism folks might…

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Above, papaya tree!

I don’t understand the egg on the pizza

11 Jan

Pirate could live on pizza alone. I’ve suggested we do a tropical version of the Burrito Eater from San Francisco, and rate all the pizza in Guadeloupe. There is a LOT of pizza. I like how it is often prepared and served roadside from the canteen trucks. I find it impressive that the entire operation doesn’t exist until about 6pm and then there they are, full pizza oven roaring for the evening until it’s all packed away again, including the generator (have you ever eaten roadside beside a generator? Interesting ambiance) and doesn’t reappear until the next evening.  As with all food, the quality of the pizza varies depending on where you get it and I suppose, what your expectations are.

So we went to a great little restaurant last night, Bahia Lounge Cafe in St. Francois. The menu is a big mix of Asian-inspired cuisine, typical local dishes, and of course, pizza. There is always pizza, it seems. So Pirate gets a pizza and I get an awesome salad with chevre toast. When the pizza arrives, I notice something I’ve seen before but chose to ignore because it kind of made me nauseous.  In the center of the pizza, there is a half cooked egg, fried egg style, sunny side up. Just laying there, on top of the pizza, big yellow yolk all runny, with the white of the egg around it, all slimy and undercooked. On a pizza. With ham and cheese and some olives.  Now, food is one of the biggest cultural things to explore when you are Someplace Else. I am open to some things, I eat sushi, I tried beef carpaccio, didn’t like it, tried escargot, wasn’t really a texture I enjoyed, but I’m not criticizing people who eat things I don’t. It just depends what you like. But seriously. An egg on a pizza? I know, I know, I must be ignorant. I don’t get it. Such refined eating habits are above me. (turns green) I admit it, I don’t understand. Was it a mistake someone made one day and just called it the newest thing so they wouldn’t have to throw the pizza away? Was it a college student’s hangover creation when there was nothing but leftover pizza and one egg in the house? Why? Why would you ruin a delicious thing like pizza, cheesy golden goodness on the perfect amount of slightly crispy yet soft dough, with an undercooked egg? (turns more green) Sigh. It ranks right up there with beef tartare, raw ground beef served in a bowl with a raw egg on top, you mix it and eat it. If that’s your thing, go nuts, but I can’t fathom putting one forkful into my mouth without vomiting. Even if I could eat it, I’d be worried about getting seriously ill – may I reference my past post about W for worms…. Yeah yeah I eat raw fish. Maybe it’s the same, I don’t know. Eesh.

In any case, Bahia Lounge Cafe is recommended by moi. The lady (I’m not sure if she’s the owner) who is always working there is so kind. Always smiling. The food is systematically great and presented nicely. (see my salad, I don’t know why I didn’t snap a better picture of the stupid egg-pizza, but you can see it! The yolk…to the right of the frame!) There are a lot of options and great appetizers like nem, samosa, accra.  I’ve never been there for live music but from the looks of their facebook page it seems they’re quite busy, I’d check it out. It’s very spacious and open air.  Easy parking at the marina in St. Francois.  You might want to ask about the egg situation before you order any pizza….

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